D.C. Weekender
The best way to see the nation’s capital is on a bike, of course. Washington D.C. is ringed by many wonderful bike trails that will take you up, down, around, out of, and back into the District with sight after sight along the way.
Ride Details
129 miles
3 day ride
Depart: Amtrak Northeast Regional
Penn Station >> D.C.
Return: Amtrak Northeast Regional
D.C. >> Penn Station
Asphalt all the way
Stay in D.C.
The big thing to consider with D.C. is the weather. Remember, it’s a swamp. That means when things get wet, they tend to get flooded. Many of the trails on this trip flank rivers and creeks and roll through marshland. Get a good downpour and they get pretty soggy pretty fast. Follow the forecast before you head out to ensure you have a dry run.
I personally recommend the colder months. Clear skies, low humidity, fewer crowds, and no mosquitoes. I actually rode this trip in the dead of winter and loved it.
Day 1: Rockcreek Park Run
Get an early start. Goal is to be in D.C. by early afternoon at the latest and the Northeast Regional never runs on schedule.
A note on the Northeast Regional. Tardiness is not the Northeast Regional’s only shortcoming. Every train line I’ve taken a bike on has made the experience easier than initially expected, including the Northeast Regional circa 2019. But that was then. Today, instead of taking your bike to the baggage car, Amtrak has in-car bike racks on this line and they’re terrible.
First you have to find the rack. On the outside of the train cars you’ll see a little bike icon by the doors indicating the car has a rack. Inside you’ll see a luggage rack, often loaded with luggage, and no obvious bike rack. When I asked the conductor where to find the racks, he replied “Well, that’s just the risk you take in bringing a bike.” Uh… what?! “Luck of the draw, buddy.” After some pressing I got him to show me, which brings us to step two.
You have to set the rack up. The conductor moved all the luggage from the luggage rack to an open space on the floor (which would have been a great place to store a bike), deconstructed the luggage rack, and voila! There’s our bike rack—well, almost.
Finally, you are supposed to take the front wheel off, hang the bike by the rear wheel, pull up a metal support arm, secure your frame to it using the attached velcro strap, and then watch your prized possession rattle in a steel cage for the entire journey. The whole idea is to keep your bike from invading the aisle, but it doesn’t actually work in practice, especially if your saddle sits higher than your stem and handlebars. Leave it to the government to design the dumbest bike rack I’ve ever used.
I followed the rules on the way down and wish I hadn’t. On the ride home, I kept both wheels on, hung the bike by the front wheel, and it was both more out of the way and more secure in the rack. I recommend you do the same.
Grab a bite at Union Station. COVID killed many of the better quick eats in the station. There are some passable options on the lower level. REI is also up the street for energy bars and the like, or any other last minute gear needs. Don’t worry, much better eats await the end of your ride.
Take the Metro out to Shady Grove. The only thing more complicated than Amtrak’s new bike racks is the D.C. Metro’s metrocard vending machine. You’ll only need to add enough credit to take you to Shady Grove at the end of the Red line.
Let the fun begin! From here on out it’s a lovely leafy descent through Rock Creek Park into the heart of D.C. You’ll start the ride at the north end of Lake Needwood and wind your way through the woods following the babble of Rock Creek. About 15 miles in you’ll pass the Washington D.C. Temple and wonder what Mormon architect nerded out on Batman comics before creating this gem. As the trail gets closer to D.C. and more crowded, consider jumping onto Beach Drive, which runs parallel to the trail and is closed to car traffic on weekends. You can follow Beach Drive all the way down to the National Zoo, the last stop before exiting Rock Creek Park. Unfortunately, it will almost certainly be closed by the time you get there.
Eat in Adams Morgan. Lucky Buns is everything you need at this point.
Welcome to the District. Technically, you will have crossed the border many miles ago. But you’ll certainly feel a more distinct sense of arrival as you shoot out along the Potomac past the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts and the Lincoln Memorial, around Hains Point, across the Mall, and up to Lafayette Square for the bike selfie grand finale of The White House.
Check out Dupont Circle. Grab a post-ride brewski at Duke's Grocery and let your inner bibliofile run wild at Second Story Books.
Eat in Adams Morgan (again). Tail Up Goat is an excellent choice. Top it all off with a nightcap at The LINE DC, which is also a lovely place to stay.
Stay in West End, Dupont Circle or Logan Circle. If you don’t stay at The LINE, these neighborhoods are centrally located and full of hotels.
Day 2: District Loop
Get breakfast at Tatte Bakery & Cafe. They make some delicious breakfast sandwiches here. Eat up! This is a big ride without any food stops directly en route. Consider taking another sandwich for the road.
Cruise along the Capital Crescent Trail. It’s an easy run up to Bethesda. If you haven’t ridden the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, consider jumping onto the section of the C&O that parallels the Capital Crescent for a taste of that bigger trail. Just be sure to get back on the Capital Crescent before it begins to veer north at Fletcher Cove’s Boathouse.
Loop through the suburbs. The next third of this ride runs a leisurely horseshoe through suburban Maryland up the Bethesda Trolley Trail, across the Matthew Henson Trail, and then back down the Sligo Creek Trail. There are a few brief on-road sections between the trails, but plenty of sidewalk space to stay safe. The Sligo Creek Trail is especially pleasant, feeling like the cycling equivalent of a lazy river tube ride. Just beware of the pedestrians. I rode through on a frigid day in February and the trail was crowded. I can only imagine the traffic during warmer weather.
Get lost going down the Anacostia. The Sligo Creek flows out into the Anacostia River, which the Anacostia River Trail parallels all the way into Southwest D.C. It’s a surprising gem of a trail. You’ll feel far away in a good way as the well marked trail winds its way through National Park Service protected marshland.
Welcome to the District. Crossing over the Frederick Douglass Memorial Bridge the Southwest Waterfront erupts from the river. Seeing the extraordinary amount of new construction reminds you of what a boomtown D.C. has been. From here on out it’s a run past the big memorials, around the Tidal Basin, and up into Georgetown. They come one after another: Thomas Jefferson Memorial, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial, and Lincoln Memorial.
Cupcakes at Baked & Wired. They make a worthy post-ride snack. Take it all in and take a load off on the benches that sit along the locks of the C&O Canal in Georgetown.
Oysters and aperitifs before dinner. Hit up my longtime favorite Hank’s Oyster Bar in Dupont Circle followed by a big bowl of gnocchi at Al Tiramisu. Or hit up my other longtime favorite Pearl Dive Oyster Palace near Logan Circle followed by a big plate of steak frites at Le Diplomate. You can’t go wrong either way.
Day 3: Mount Vernon Express
Get breakfast somewhere… You have a few good options for today. For lighter French fare try Un je ne sais Quoi…. Bagels Etc is surprisingly decent for a bacon or sausage, egg, and cheese. You can always go back to Tatte Bakery & Cafe or Baked & Wired for a quiche.
Workout on the Custis Trail. This rambling little urban trail flanks Interstate 66 and rolls up and down, up and down the whole way. You’re sure to get your heartrate up!
Stick to Four Mile Run Trail. It begins at the end of the Custis Trail and runs parallel to the Washington and Old Dominion Trail. While the W&OD may appear more inviting than Four Mile Run, save that trail for a future weekend trip along its full length out to Purcellville, Virginia.
Enjoy the Potomac views. Plenty of good river vistas on the road heading south.
Visit George Washington's Mount Vernon. GW’s diggs are a weekend highlight and not to be missed. Spend a few here.
Check out Alexandria. You rolled through on the way down. Definitely take a few to take it in on the way back. Jones Point Lighthouse is, I believe, the last remaining lighthouse on the Potomac. The Historical District is very lovely. Lots of food and drink on King Street if you’re in the mood for a longer stop.
Watch a landing at Gravelly Point. The airliners come in low and loud over this park as they touch down at Reagan National Airport.
Visit Arlington National Cemetery. The gravesites for RBG and JFK are not far past the Welcome Center, as is Robert E. Lee’s old mansion.
Welcome to the District. Your last grand arrival into D.C. for this weekend will bring you over the Arlington Bridge and across the full length of the Mall from the Lincoln Memorial to the United States Capitol. Be sure to stop for bike selfies at some of the big sights along the way, including the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool, World War II Memorial, Washington Monument, and Smithsonian Castle
Eat up before boarding. Otherwise you’re stuck with Amtrak cafe car grub. There’s the usual Union Station fare or try The Monocle Restaurant nearby for something a little more celebratory.
