Gear
Unlike many outdoor sports, such as skiing or scuba diving, the bar for bike tripping is wonderfully low. You need a bike, that’s all. Everything else is optional.
Bike
What type of bike is needed for bike trips?
The short answer is any bike in good working order that you would be comfortable riding for 3-6 hours at a time.
The longer answer depends a great deal on the types of bike trips you want to take. Generally, for the trips on this site you’ll want an adaptable bike that can handle a variety of trail conditions. Most major bike manufacturers have “gravel” or “all-road” categories, which are a safe bet. An old school hybrid or touring bike can also work well.
Most of my bike tripping years were passed on a Raleigh Clubman Disc. More recently I upgraded to a Cannondale Topstone Carbon.
Regardless of the type, here are a few key things to consider in a good bike trip bike:
- Frame. Carbon, steel, aluminum… which to choose? It doesn’t matter. Go with whatever you prefer. The most important thing to consider with the frame is the geometry. Spending all day in the saddle you’ll want to ride in a comfortable position. With regards to weight, don’t go bananas counting ounces between different frames. I’ve bike tripped on heavy frames and light frames, and I enjoyed all the trips equally as much.
- Gears. You’ll want a good spread of gear ratios, with an emphasis on the easy ones to get you up the steep hills on a loaded bike.
- Mounts. At a minimum, you’ll need sufficient mounts for two water bottle cages, which is pretty standard. If you plan to ride with panniers (more on those in the Bags section below), look for fork and frame mounts to attach front and rear racks.
- Stability. Bike tripping often feels like the family vacation to the lake house. Leave the convertible in the garage, you’ll want the station wagon for this one. Make sure that your bike can ride stable with all the extra weight.
- Tires. The majority of bikeable trails are crushed stone, dirt, grass, gravel, and most anything else that is not silky smooth asphalt. Super skinny road bike tires are not your friend. I’ve ridden many of my bike trips on 700x28c Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. The tires themselves are bombproof—one flat in five years!—but the width was definitely on the narrower end for when things got bumpy. My Cannondale Topstone came with 700x37c WTB Riddlers, which have been a joy on most bike trails.
- Saddle. Whatever came stock on your bike, even on an expensive bike, is probably lousy because saddles are subjective. Swap it out for a comfortable one. I swear by Brooks Saddles. On my first bike trip I rode ~450 miles along the Erie Canalway from Buffalo to Albany on a Brooks Swift and the only part of me that didn’t hurt was seated in that saddle. I’ve used Brooks ever since.
- Pedals. Same as the saddle, you’ll want to swap out whatever came stock. If you ride clipless, you’re savvy enough to know what works for you. If not, look for a good platform pedal. The more surface area for your foot, the better. I ride the iSSi Flip III for the best of both worlds—clipless on one side, platform on the other.
Accessories
There are a handful of important accessories you should keep in mind for any good bike trip. The bike itself is obviously the only true must-have. That said, the below items you definitely should have.
- Water bottles. Many bikes have mounts for at least two water bottle cages. Use them! You can never have too much water, especially in the summer. Be sure to refill at every opportunity.
- Back-up food. Always good to have a reserve of food if needed, such as dried fruit, trail mix, or granola bars. I like Honey Stinger Waffles and Trader Joe's Soft & Juicy Mandarins for on-bike snacks. A can of sardines and crackers makes a packable meal in a pinch.
- Spare tube. Expect to get a flat at some point. Always have at least one spare tube on hand (and know how to change it).
- Bike tools. No need for anything fancy, just something simple to cover the basic adjustments on your bike. I use Prestacycle’s T-Handle Ratchet Wallet. I’m a big fan of anything Spurcycle makes and would have bought their Spurcycle Tool had it been in stock at the time. A set of tire levers and a pump are must-haves for changing flats. I’ve always liked Lezyne pumps.
- First aid kit. Something small with the basics like Adventure Medical Kits will do the trick.
- Portable charger. You’ll want to keep the juice in your phone just in case anything goes wrong.
- Lock. Bikes are easy to steal because they come with a built in getaway vehicle. I’m embarrassed to admit that I must have hauled a Kryptonite New York Standard over thousands of miles in the name of bike security. That was way more lock than needed for bike tripping. I now use a Foldylock Compact, which is deterrent enough while being significantly lighter and easier to carry.
- Lights. See and, more importantly, be seen by cars. Those weenie blinkers you use for your city commute aren’t going to cut it. Bigger, brighter, better. Again, I’m a fan of Lezyne, especially their ultra bright front and rear light pairs.
- Bell. Loud and proud and be prepared to use it liberally. The Spurcycle Original Bell is the best bike bell I've ever heard. Even Moses couldn’t part the Brooklyn Bridge pedestrian path as well as this powerful little dinger.
Bags
For all but the shortest trip you’ll want some form of a bike bag to carry the necessities.
The internet is ripe with debate on the merits of racks with panniers versus bikepacking bags for multi-day trips. The crux of the debate boils down to space versus weight. I happily used panniers for the first five years of my bike tripping adventures, before switching over to bikepacking bags to try something new. They each have their advantages and disadvantages.
No matter what you choose, above all, don’t wear a backpack. Your back will hate you at the end of a long ride.
Here’s my take:
- Panniers: The good? Ease of use. Two panniers will take you very far. They’re easy to pack, easy to get on and off the bike, and easy to fit everything you need.
The bad? They’re heavy when loaded. The weight in aggregate is less of an issue than how the weight is distributed. I only ever had a need for two panniers, so all the weight was loaded on the rear rack of the bike. You can better balance the bike with four panniers (two front and two back), but then you need four panniers… along with a front and rear rack… That’s all well and good if you plan to spend the next six months on your bike. It’s total overkill for a few day trip, even with camping gear. The other downside to panniers is they rattle like hell on a bumpy trail.
If you go this route, Ortlieb is the gold standard for quality panniers. If I was in the market, I’d probably opt for their Gravel Pack. I’ve long used Brooks Norfolk Front Panniers on my rear rack because they’re small and I like the way they look. Swift Industries makes a nice compact set too. - Bikepacking bags: If you have no idea what these are, start at the same place I did with this helpful guide from Bikepacking.com.
The good? Weight distribution. Strapped to your frame from handlebars to seat post, bikepacking bags distribute the weight of your load across the entire bike, which makes for a more stable ride. They’re also more streamlined than panniers in that they don’t widen your load. You’ll appreciate that darting through trees on a single track (and never think about it on most rail trails). Lastly, they look cool. “Cyclists” usually get flipped the bird. “Bikepackers” get a thumbs up.
The bad? Relative to panniers, they’re a pain to get on and off the bike. Packing requires a bit more creativity. While you may have the same total capacity as a set of panniers, that capacity will be split across at least four bags of varying shapes and sizes. They also rub, so they’ll mark up your frame unless you use some kind of protective tape like Lizardskins.
If you go this route, you’ll have no difficulty finding good options. I went with the Brooks Scape line. I stick all my clothes in the seat bag, sleep system (i.e. tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad) in the handlebar roll, snacks in the top tube bag, and bike tools and other odds and ends in the frame bag.
Apparel
Let’s get one thing out of the way first. Most cycling clothing looks like a spandex catsuit, often in neon colors. You definitely do not need a neon spandex catsuit to take a bike trip.
In fact, I would argue you’re better off riding without one. A good portion of the world that I’ve biked through thinks cyclists are a**holes, and nothing screams cyclist more than a neon spandex catsuit. Bike tripping is also about time off the bike, and no one spends any time off the bike in a neon spandex catsuit.
You really just need clothes that are comfortable and wick sweat. For the most part, any general exercise apparel will do fine to get started. If you get into bike tripping, then upgrade your riding wardrobe.
My riding kit is all Rapha at this point. I find their designs to be smart and more understated than the usual cycling attire. The price is high, but the quality and customer service are excellent. Before I sold the farm to afford Rapha, I was happy with my Giro getup. I still use their helmets.
If the Francophile in you is too strong for Rapha, which is a British company, try Café du Cycliste instead. Kudos to them for making the single most Brooklyn bike jersey I’ve ever seen.
Whatever you choose, here’s a rundown of what I typically include in my pack list to help guide you:
- Bottoms. Three words: padded shorts + overshorts. Padded shorts are the only part of the catsuit I wholeheartedly endorse. On longer rides and definitely on multi-day rides your undercarriage will thank you. Look for a pair that’s meant to be worn under something else, like these base liner shorts, as they’ll breathe better. The overshorts help keep the cyclist vibes to a minimum and can be whatever you want. Just make sure they’re flexible and be mindful that the seams don’t dig into your keister.
- Tops. Merino everything and think in layers. When riding from dawn to dusk expect temperature changes, even in summer. Just like any good hike, dress in layers that are easy to shed as you heat up. Why merino? It feels good, looks nice, wicks sweat, and doesn’t stink after a long day in the saddle. I’m a big fan of Rapha’s Brevet jerseys, which I wear over a thin merino base layer on all but the hottest days.
- Socks. Merino, obviously. On colder rides I find it impossible to keep my feet warm. I tried every manner of winter socks to no avail before discovering the joys of foot warmers. I’d long used them skiing but never thought to try them biking. Highly recommend!
- Shoes. For most of my experience I biked in sneakers. If you do the same, opt for a pair with harder soles. All of your body weight on a bike is supported at three contact points: your behind, hands, and feet. I made the mistake of wearing Converse All Stars on one trip and my feet felt like they were melting through the pedals. No fun. I eventually transitioned to clipless pedals with proper bike shoes and have never looked back.
- Gloves. I opt for pretty minimalist bike gloves that don’t have thick padding. For me, I use them to absorb sweat in the summer and keep my digits warm in the cooler months. Rapha’s gloves are stupid expensive, but they’ve worked well for me. Buy them on sale.
- Head. Helmet, always. On colder days I’ll wear a thin merino beanie under it to stay warm.
- Outerwear. A packable waterproof jacket will always make your trip better. Look for a light one that can double as a windbreaker. The single best piece of bike attire I have is Rapha’s Brevet Insulated Jacket, which I wear over a short sleeve jersey and base layer. This deceptively thin jacket combined with a waterproof shell allowed me to bike through a winter in Maine.
- Off-bike clothes. The key here is comfort and keeping it simple. On every trip, no matter how long, I just bring one off-bike outfit. This typically includes a pair of comfy shorts or pants, t-shirt or sweater, clean undies and socks, and sneakers or sandals. On all but the hottest summer trips I also bring a lightweight packable down jacket, especially when camping, because when the sun goes down you’ll get cold fast.
Camping
If you’re lodging indoors, you can make just about any overnight bike trip work with a credit card and a toothbrush. Once you start sleeping in the great outdoors you’ll have more specific gear requirements.
Some of them are optional. For example, camp cook gear is a personal preference. I think those things take up too much space, and anyhow prefer to do my eating at delis, diners, and the like along the way.
The big three non-negotiable items are: tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. These three items will take up most of your bag space and be the majority of your extra weight, so if there’s one place to splurge on any bike trip gear, splurge on it here. Outdoor Gear Lab is a great site to figure out what ultralight camp gear will best meet your needs. I use Sea to Summit camp gear for the most part and am a sucker for just about anything they make.
Here’s a quick rundown on what I’ve used:
- Tent: My first bike camping tent was the predecessor to the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL1. It was the smallest freestanding tent I could find at the time that didn’t feel like sleeping in a nylon coffin. I have nothing but good things to say about that tent. Big Agnes has since released a whole line of bikepacking tents that look promising.
More recently, I bought the Sea to Summit Alto TR1 to try something new. This brand is generally smart about their design. I like how the tent packs up modularly, which makes it easier to carry in bikepacking bags, and I like the amount of headroom it affords for an ultralight tent. I only wish it was freestanding like the Copper Spur.
Whatever tent you choose, be sure to get the matching footprint to keep the wet out and prevent wear and tear to the base. - Sleeping bag: Originally, I had the Sea to Summit Micro MCII, which is discontinued. What I liked about that bag is it packed down to the size of a grapefruit and unzipped fully to form a blanket. This made it more versatile, especially in warmer temperatures.
I’ve since acquired the Sea to Summit Traveller Sleeping Bag, which is effectively the same concept as the Micro MCII but packs down even smaller. - Sleeping pad: Round one was the Sea to Summit Ultralight Insulated Air Sleeping Mat. It packed down to nothing and is widely regarded as among the best options out there. I found it to be the single most uncomfortable surface I’ve ever slept on.
I upgraded to the Sea to Summit Ether Light XT and glad I did. This one doesn’t carry the same insulation as the previous one, which is no bother because I’ve since decided to stop sleeping outdoors in frigid temperatures. - Other stuff: An inflatable pillow and quick dry towel are luxuries that will definitely improve your bike camping experience. I use the Aeros Premium Pillow and Airlite Towel, both from Sea to Summit (of course!).