Chesapeake & Ohio Canal

NOTE: This trip is best done combined with the Great Allegheny Passage to make a full week-long bike journey from Pittsburgh to D.C. 

Similar to the Great Allegheny Passage (aka GAP), there are a wealth of good planning resources out there for this trip, foremost among which is the National Park Service’s Chesapeake & Ohio Canal (aka C&O) website. That’s your first stop for trail conditions and any closures. This very 1990s site also has a great forum for up-to-date trail user reports. Here are a few pro tips to call out up front:

• When to go? We rode toward the end of the biking season in early November and loved it. Admittedly, it was damn cold in the mornings and we ran low on daylight at this mileage. But the frosty mornings and golden hour evenings were especially serene. I’d happily do this ride again earlier in autumn. Spring would be nice too, so long as you pick a relatively dry stretch. As a mostly dirt trail, it can get muddy pretty fast. The Potomac also floods… so there’s that. I personally couldn’t imagine doing this ride in the heat of peak D.C. summer. 
• How to get there? Amtrak has become surprisingly easy for schlepping bikes across the country with carry-on bike service on many trains now. If you can, splurge on a private room to make the journey cushier. You’ll ride the Northeast Regional to D.C., then change to the Capitol Limited from there to Cumberland. 
• Where to stop? If you’re camping, the world is your oyster with basic campsites every 15 miles or so. If you’re lodging, then the C&O offers fewer options than the GAP because there are fewer towns en route. We did a three day ride, which was spirited, to say the least. For a more leisurely pace, I’ve included a four day alternate itinerary below. 
• What to bring? With fewer towns along the way and limited cell service, you need to bank on being more self-sufficient on the C&O than the GAP. There’s a solid 30 mile stretch of nothingness right out the gate from Cumberland. Be sure to carry extra food and water, spare tubes, bike tools, first aid kit, and anything else you might need when the going gets rough.  

Day 1: Cumberland >> Hancock

Stay at Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Cumberland. The train from NYC will arrive in the evening, so you’ll want to spend a night before starting the ride. This place is exactly what you think it is, conveniently located right on the trail, and a short ride from the train station.

Get breakfast at Cafe Mark. Eat up. Today’s a big ride, the first day of three big rides, and arguably the hardest. 

Start at Canal Place. This is the western-most point of the C&O and where the trail officially begins. This is also where the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O meet, with a nice medallion embedded in the pathway to mark it. Check out the Cumberland Visitor Center and snap a bike selfie in front of the mule statue. Other good bike selfie spots nearby are “The Cumberland'' canal boat at Canal Place Stage and George Washington's Headquarters. 

Relish the solitude. The trail out of Cumberland gets real quiet real fast and sets the tone for the rest of the journey. On this leg you’re likely to count more deer than people, which is a big part of the joy of this trip. You can truly lose yourself in the serenity of your surroundings.

Eat in Paw Paw (the town). Amanda’s Place is well situated as a lunch stop and the food is… well, let’s just say the service is nice. Amanda’s also allows for a first foray into West Virginia. It’s a curious scene. As one of only two restaurants between Cumberland and Hancock within reach of the trail, one side of the dining room will greet you with lycra, neon, and bike helmets. The other side greets you with cold stares, camo, and Stars and Bars.

Be ready for Paw Paw (the tunnel). The Paw Paw Tunnel is one of the highlights of Day 1. A colossal feat of early-19th century engineering, the tunnel bore a 3,000+ foot canal passage through a mountain—and was a total business failure. The tunnel aimed to save 15 miles of canal digging along the many S curves in this part of the Potomac. Running wildly behind schedule and over budget, the completion of the tunnel arrived just in time to bankrupt its backers as the newly launched B&O rail line made canal boat travel obsolete.

Unfortunately, these 19th century movers and shakers were not the last to be disappointed by the Paw Paw Tunnel, which has been closed on and off to bike trippers for renovations over the last several years. The only alternative is a 375 foot ascent over the mountain on the Tunnel Hill Trail, most of which requires walking your bike. The view from the top is nice though. Be sure to check the National Park Service’s website for updates, and if you’re fortunate enough to ride when the tunnel is open, bring a light because the tunnel has none. 

Enjoy the ride. The trail post-Paw Paw passes many scenic views of the river, along with lots of the usual canal towpath fare: locks, lockhouses, and other shells of structures long since abandoned. It’s all very lovely, and if you’re riding in autumn the trail will feel like riding on a carpet of leaves. 

Hop onto the Western Maryland Rail Trail. After 50-ish miles of bumping along the C&O, you’ll be delighted to spend the last dozen cruising into Hancock along the silky smooth asphalt of the Western Maryland, which runs parallel. You can pick it up around Canal Lock 56. It’s not marked, but if you look up to your left you’ll see it.

Welcome to Hancock. Buddylou's Eats Drinks & Antiques is a local institution and the place to go for dinner. Make Potomac River Grill your back up plan if for any reason Buddylou’s is closed, as it was when we rolled through in November 2021 due to COVID staffing shortages.

Stay at Riverrun Bed and Breakfast. Or 1828 Trail Inn Bed & Breakfast. They’re both right near the trail. Whatever you do, avoid the Super 8 unless there is no other option or you prefer murder motel vibes with Austin Powers decor.

Day 2: Hancock >> Harpers Ferry

Get breakfast at your BnB. Potomac River Grill also serves up the usual diner eats. 

Spot the deer. The trail is even more quiet leaving Hancock in the morning than leaving Cumberland the day before. It’s especially serene on a crisp autumn morning. There’s a wonderful beauty to an empty trail with glistening autumn leaves crusted in frost—and deer, literally everywhere. Some bolt to the woods immediately. Others pause, frozen in expectation, and then they too bolt as you approach. The less skittish slowly lumber to the side still grazing. And then occasionally one will bound dead in front of you, leading the charge down the trail while leaping in the air. 

Eat in Williamsport. Desert Rose Café and Sweet Shoppe is everything you want with a wonderfully charming 1950s soda pop vibe. Check out the canal visitor center while you’re there.

Ride with a view. The trail after Williamsport is incredibly scenic, full of river views and quaint lock houses. The canal eventually merges with the Potomac around Big Slackwater and the trail runs on a boardwalk of sorts directly over the river. It’s a very unique and fun ride here.

Eat (again) in Shepherdstown. You’re likely to find yourself hungry again about now. The many, many winding curves of the Potomac after Williamsport will make it feel like you’ve biked a great distance (and you have) without getting much closer to your destination at Harpers Ferry (also true). We had big plans for Maria’s Taqueria or Big Moon Cafe on our trip. But with afternoon light fading, we opted to crack a tin of sardines instead at Canal Lock 38 and make haste.

Beware trail traffic. After about 120 miles of feeling alone on the C&O, you’re likely to encounter an uptick in trail traffic as you approach Harpers Ferry. My favorites were a triad of elderly ladies. As I approached I rang my bell. They didn’t move. I called out “On your left!” Still, they didn’t move. I slowed to a crawl about 10 yards behind when one looked back and noticed me. Two moved to the side while one remained stopped in the middle of the trail.

“What?!” the one blocking the path said.

“Bicycle! Move to the side,” said the second lady.

“What?!” the blocker blurted louder.

“Bicycle!!!” said the second again, raising the volume.

“BI-CY-CLE!!!!!” exclaimed the third, practically screaming now.

Finally, she gave way. As I rolled past, she called out to me “Next time use your bell or say something so you don’t surprise us!” Can’t win…

Welcome to Harpers Ferry. First you’ll have to schlep your loaded bike up the spiral staircase onto the Winchester and Potomac Railroad Bridge. But then holy hell… what a view! We arrived just in time for a dramatic sunset of neon pink reflecting off the White Horse Rapids and framed by the fork of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. Truly stunning. The Point is the best spot to capture it in a bike selfie. Climb up the hill to St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church for an even more epic view. Mosey around a bit more cause it’s a pretty town. The Rabbit Hole is a solid choice for dinner. For whatever reason, it was the only restaurant open when we arrived in early November. 

Stay at the Stonehouse Bed & Breakfast. This is where we wanted to stay and you’ll be thankful that it is at the base of the town. Unfortunately, during our stay it was sold out, so we had to book an Airbnb a mile up—as in straight uphill—Washington Street. Nobody wants that after a nearly 70 mile day. Book in advance.

Day 3: Harpers Ferry >> D.C.

Start early. Sunrise is just as dramatic as sunset at Harpers Ferry. You’ll likely see an army of Patagonia-clad hikers crowd the bridge out of town, marching in rhythm with their colorful walking sticks. Morning joggers are also plentiful.

Get breakfast at Beans in the Belfry. Regardless of whether you eat at your BnB, definitely stop 6 miles down the road in Brunswick for food and coffee at this place. The cafe is in an old church and feels like something out of a 1990s sitcom. The morning light radiates through the stained glass windows. It’s all very warm and inviting. 

Enjoy the ride. The scenery is more varied on this stretch. You’ll ride past lock houses and streams, over aqueducts, and by the side of a canal that is now increasingly filled with water. 

Eat at White's Ferry Store & Grill. After some 200 years of operation, the ferry itself is not running (as of November 2021), mired in a legal dispute between land owners on the Maryland and Virginia sides of the river. The store is still open though, and is marked up to the third floor by the flood heights that breached the building in ‘72, ‘85, and ‘96. The history here is better than the food, but it still makes a good lunch stop. You’ll start to notice more of the D.C. cycling set putting in their miles around here. 

Visit Great Falls. It’s the first and really only big tourist attraction you’ll hit on this trip before D.C. The uptick in traffic is jarring because seemingly out of nowhere this wonderfully solitary trail becomes chock-a-block jammed with camera toting tourists. And yet, the falls are quite stunning. The observation deck is a good spot for a bike selfie. Be sure to take a break to take in the view at Mary’s Wall and Stop Gate.

Lockhouse countdown begins. There are 20 locks in the last 15 miles. As the trail descends following the falls of the Potomac, you’ll pick up pace and probably start to count them down.

19, 17, 18…

12, 11, 10, 9, 8…

At this point the roar of the rapids to your right is replaced by the rush of the parkway to your left.

7, 6, 5…

Enjoy the authenticity… Almost to D.C.! The trail has been bumpy since Great Falls. This part of the towpath is unfinished and left in its “authentic” original state. More trail traffic—walkers, joggers, scooters, and bikers—but no sign of a city. “On your left!” Expect to be dusty and tired, hurting and hungry at this point. Consider hopping onto the paved Capital Crescent Trail to smooth out the last few miles. 

Welcome to D.C. And then suddenly Georgetown, followed by Mile Marker 0. Fin.

PS - You’ll be confused about how to find Mile Marker 0. As the trail enters Georgetown, it becomes a narrow pedestrian path not fit for biking. To get there easily, hop off the trail and follow K Street under the highway toward Georgetown Waterfront Park. Mile Marker 0 is at the southeastern end of it.

Alternate Route: Hancock >> D.C.

Maybe better over four days? This many miles over three days is no joke. Were I to do this ride again, I would probably opt to do it over four days instead. The challenge is that unless you’re entirely self-supported with food and camping gear, there are only so many towns along the way to break up the ride. Here’s how I would do it: 

• Alt Day 1: There is no alternative, it’s Hancock or bust for Day 1. Unless you want to stay in Paw Paw… (you don’t want to stay in Paw Paw). 
• Alt Day 2: Hancock >> Shepherdstown. The Mecklenburg Inn looks like a good option for the night. 
• Alt Day 3: Shepherdstown >> Lock 25. The Canal Trust runs a cool program where you can rent out a lockhouse for the night. My only regret of this trip was that our itinerary didn’t allow for this, because it seems really fun. Note that there is nowhere to eat anywhere around Lockhouse 25, so your best bet is to grab a little something extra from White's Ferry Store & Grill. 
• Alt Day 4: Lock 25 >> D.C. This easy 30-mile day will probably leave you with enough steam to do a cruise around the Mall, lots of bike selfie fodder there. 

Trails

• Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park
• Western Maryland Rail Trail
• Capital Crescent Trail