Western Mass to New Haven Flyer
This trip is a great intro to bike tripping in New England. As a near straight shoot north to south across the heart of Massachusetts and Connecticut, you’ll find much of what makes this region such a pleasure to bike through: woodsy trails, lovely towns, and good eats along the way.
Ride Details
113 miles
2 day ride
Depart: Amtrak Vermonter
Penn Station >> Northampton
Return: Metro-North New Haven Line
New Haven >> Grand Central
Asphalt all the way
Mostly flat
Night 1: Stay in Northampton
Night 2: Camp at Southwick Acres Campground
This trip is also a good one for bike camping beginners. Much like the Mid-Hudson Tour, you benefit from a ride that is (long) weekend accessible from NYC, never far from public transportation, and on well maintained trails flanked by amenities galore.
Day 1: Northampton >> Amherst >> Southwick
Spend a night in Northampton. At the time of writing, Amtrak’s train schedule demands crashing in Northampton for a night, since you won’t arrive till early evening. If you’re a racer and don’t mind riding in the dark, sure, you can complete the Day 1 miles right out the gate. But where’s the fun in that? Northampton happens to be a pretty grand town, so spend the night and enjoy. As far as I can tell, there’s no camping nearby. Grab an Airbnb, a regular BnB, or whatever suits your fancy.
Dine at Amanouz Cafe. I know what you’re thinking, I didn’t expect to find great Moroccan food just outside an Amtrak station in Western Mass either. If available, I recommend the whole fish. It’s delicious.
Backtrack to Amherst. Start your Day 1 ride with a north by northeast detour along the Mass Central Rail Trail before hitting the road south toward New Haven. The Norwottuck Rail Trail Bridge is an early highlight and a great place for bike selfies, as the photo on this page proudly attests. The rest of the ride will take you through some exquisite farm country under a lush canopy of green. On your return, roll through Amherst and grab a slice at Antonio’s Pizzeria. A colleague of mine boldly claimed “it’s the best pizza in the world.” I didn’t have the heart to tell him otherwise, since he’s never had a New York slice. That said, a few hours into your ride I promise you too will find this pizza quite tasty.
Ignore Google Maps (sometimes). As you head south through East Hampton and toward the end of the Manhan Rail Trail, the disappearance of that little green line on Google Maps will indicate you’re headed for some on-road time. It’s a lie, don’t believe it. True, the paved section of the trail does end—and there’s even a stone marker proclaiming Le Fin of the Manhan. But ignore! Directly across the street, you’ll find a dirt pathway through the woods. Take it and relish in the off-the-grid continuation of your ride. A few miles beyond the woods path will spit you back out, at which point, yes, you are on-road until the start of the Columbia Greenway Rail Trail in Westfield.
A note on Southwick Acres Campground. Any kind of public campground (e.g. county, state, or national) is always the preferred option for bike camping. The truth is, more often than not, your only option for pitching a tent will be some kind of seasonal RV campground. Fear not, the facilities are usually clean and the showers warm. Personally, I’ve always gotten a good rise out of the juxtaposition of my single-person tent, which is the dimensions of a coffin with a little more headroom, perched next to a three-bedroom condo on wheels.
Day 2: Southwick >> Collinsville >> New Haven
Get breakfast at Red Riding Hood's Basket Cafe. Conveniently located right next to the trail and only a mile and half from the campsite, this is a great place to start your day. Order the breakfast sandwich on the homemade bread. They’ll give you the option of getting it on a bagel, but for the love of god… You’re a New Yorker, have a little self respect.
Take a detour along the Farmington River Trail. This route breaks the straight-line shoot from Northampton to New Haven and adds some nice river views to your journey. Stratton Brook State Park is a particularly pleasant highlight along this route. Take a dip in the pond if the weather permits. The old mill in Collinsville is another highlight and the town makes a good lunch stop. Grab a sandwich at Lasalle Market and Deli.
Check out Yale. You’ve probably heard of it. The trail dumps you about two blocks from the main campus, which is worth a visit and maybe a bike selfie or two.
Finish with Louis' Lunch. The birthplace of the hamburger as we know it, this eatery has been in business since 1895. History buffs can read up on it here. Needless to say, they make a mean burger. I particularly enjoyed their customer service, embodied by the sign on the wall: “This is not Burger King. You don’t get it your way. You take it my way, or you don't get the damn thing."
