Southern New England Escape
Want to get away from it all? Get lost in the state parks and forests of southern New England. This trip takes you through the backwoods of Connecticut and Massachusetts, before shooting you downstream along Rhode Island’s Blackstone River and out into the Narragansett Bay.
Ride Details
143 miles
3 day ride
Depart: Amtrak Northeast Regional + Hartford Line
Penn Station >> Hartford
Return: Amtrak Northeast Regional
Providence >> Penn Station
Mix of asphalt, crushed stone, dirt, grass, and gravel
Some gentle climbs
Night 1: Camp at Mashamoquet Brook State Park
Night 2: Stay in Providence
Do this trip because you can. It’s not every weekend you get to bike through three (!!!) states. Believe me, I was just as surprised as you. The route is not obvious, and you won’t find this one in the guide books. But spend some time with Google Maps and a little imagination, and there it is… Four of the region’s premier bikeways and then some strung together like Christmas lights wrapped around the trunk of Southern New England.
Day 1: Hartford >> Pomfret
Start with some sights. The gold-domed Connecticut State Capitol is one of the better ones and a good backdrop for bike selfies, conveniently located close to Hartford Union Station. While you’re there, check out the Old State House too. For literary fans, the Mark Twain House & Museum isn’t far off either.
Trail PSA. Be prepared for variable trail conditions. Plenty of the route is a smooth ride for most bikes. Other parts will be bouncy, to say the least. This is not road bike territory. The trail quality generally degrades around the tri-state border area, then improves again as you get closer to Providence. Also be prepared with spare food and water, especially on the second half of Day 1. Northeast of Willimantic is a bit of a no man’s land as far as amenities near the trail go.
Choose your adventure. As you head east from Hartford and approach Manchester Community College via the Charter Oak Greenway you’ll find two options to continue on to Bolton Notch State Park. If you prefer the more direct and asphalt paved route, or are simply a fan of the Interstate Highway System (the entire trail from here runs directly parallel to I-384, but don’t worry it’s fully protected from the road), choose Option 1. Alternatively, if you prefer a little gravel under your wheels, woods in your view, and wind in your hair that doesn’t come from a muffler, take the more meandering Option 2. Having done both, I recommend the latter without reservation.
Do lunch in Willimantic. It’s the first real town you’ll hit after leaving Manchester. You’ll pass the Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum on the way in and be forgiven for thinking it’s more junkyard than museum. Windham Town Hall may be the better spot for the bike selfie on this leg. Back to lunch... I’m a big fan of street tacos on bike trips and Tacos La Rosa doesn’t disappoint. Willimantic Brewing Company is another option. Pretty much everything else appeared out of business when I rolled through during peak COVID-19.
Do dinner… anywhere. The food scene around Mashamoquet Brook State Park is not exactly flush with options. There is the Airline Grill and Pizza 101, and that’s about it. I can’t personally vouch for either, though Google reviews suggest the local vote is firmly in favor of Pizza 101.
Camp at Mashamoquet Brook State Park. Enjoy your night under the stars.
Day 2: Pomfret >> Providence
Do breakfast right. Enjoy the relative bounty of breakfast options that await the start of your Day 2! The Vanilla Bean Cafe is a strong choice and the closest to the campground. Closer to Putnam you’ll find Bill’s Bread & Breakfast and Henry’s Diner for the usual fare.
Trail PSA Part 2. The Southern New England Trunkline picks up at the Connecticut border and is generally a rocky go at the start. Some sections are better than others. Your best bet is to read recent trail reviews to get an idea of what you’re in for. Ease your woes with a side trip to the Tri-State Marker.
Check out Woonsocket. If you’re not from New England, chances are you’re pronouncing it wrong. Don’t ask me either, I’m a New Yorker. Thunder Mist Falls are cool. Take a break at River Falls, if not for lunch, then at least for the patio views.
Enjoy the Blackstone River Greenway. This trail is a real gem. Read up on the Blackstone River Valley while you’re there. It’s literally the birthplace of America’s industrial revolution in the late 18th century, and you’re biking through it. The Captain Wilbur Kelly House makes for a great bike selfie.
Welcome to Providence! Just like that, you’re out of the woods and back in the (not so) big city. Modern Diner is on the way in through Pawtucket and is worth a stop, at least for a photo. Allegedly, diners originated in Providence in the late 1800s. Who knew?! For non-diner eats and drinks, check out Tallulah's Taqueria and Long Live Beerworks.
Day 3: Providence <> Bristol
Bristol or bust. The road to Bristol is a refreshingly easy jaunt down the East Bay Bikepath. Del’s Lemonade stand in Warren is en route and a must-stop. I’m pretty sure you’re not allowed to leave Rhode Island without having one. Yacht racing fans will rejoice in a visit to the Herreshoff Marine Museum, home to the America’s Cup Hall of Fame. Everyone else can appreciate some tasty takeout from Beehive Cafe (I recommend the pot pies) and a meal with a view in Independence Park before making your way back to Providence.
Add a day or two. The Washington Secondary Bike Pathruns south and then west out of Providence almost to the border with Connecticut. It makes for a nice out and back ride of about 40 miles. Another option is to start your trip in New Haven and ride the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail up to Hartford for Day 1.
