Boston & Maine: Northern Line

Variety is the name of the game for this trip: from the pristine waters of the Connecticut River Valley and New Hampshire’s lakes region to the metropolises of Concord and Manchester; through the history of Lexington and Concord, and into the charm of Boston. You may get tired, but you won’t get bored! 

This bike trip is inspired by New Hampshire’s Northern Railroad, which ferried passengers and freight between Quebec and Boston throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. Much of the right of way of this rail line has since been converted to trails, and this trip follows them extensively.  

Day 1: White River Junction >> Tilton

Spend a night in White River Junction. Amtrak schedules will likely demand it. Hotel Coolidge is conveniently located across from the station and there are plenty of eats and drinks nearby along the main drag. Don’t miss the cool old train at the station! 

Get breakfast at Lucky’s Coffee Garage. You’ll no doubt curse the climb out of White River Junction up Seminary Hill Road. It’s a cruel start. The breakfast sandwich on the other end at Lucky’s in Lebanon is a worthy reward for your effort. Eat up! The next food stop isn’t for another ~30 miles. 

Stop at Mascoma Lake. The start of the Northern Rail Trail parallels the Mascoma River until its source. If you’re biking in September-October you’ll notice the road to Mascoma lined with scarecrows dressed as farmers, fisherman, sailors, dancers, and more. The lake reveals itself slowly then suddenly all at once at the Mascoma Sailing Club, where there is a small beach and park. The water here is crystal clear and inviting. Take a dip if the weather permits. At least take a break to take it all in.

Learn about libertarians (and bears). Grafton is ground zero for what The New Republic called a “remarkable, and remarkably strange, episode in recent history” where a group of libertarians takes over this small town to create a government-free utopia only to see the whole project fall apart in the face of a brazen population of black bears. And you’ll bike right through it! Pick up a copy of A Libertarian Walks Into a Bear: The Utopian Plot to Liberate an American Town (And Some Bears) for the full story. 

Eat at the Danbury Country Store. It’s… fine. This particular corner of New Hampshire is not exactly known for its culinary prowess. Nine miles and change down the trail you’ll find Andover Pizza Chef, which is better but still nothing to write home about. Regardless, unless you packed your own eats, these are the options. 

Check out Potter Place Railroad Station. The station is a real treat, and there’s lots of other railroad bike selfie fodder around, including a bright red caboose. Much more interesting is the story of Richard Potter, who is buried across the tracks from the station. The son of a slave born during the last year of the American Revolution, Potter went on to become the first showman to win nationwide fame. Pick up a copy of Richard Potter: America's First Black Celebrity for the full story. 

Take a dip in Webster Lake. If this is a warm weather ride, chances are you’ll be pretty hot by this point. Webster Lake has a nice little beach, which is a grand spot to cool off for a few.

Stay in Tilton. Black Swan Inn looks nice, which is a short ride from the trailhead.

Day 2: Tilton >> Manchester

Get breakfast in Tilton or Franklin. You’ll want to eat before hitting the road because there’s not much from here on out until Concord. Try Pauli's Bakery & Restaurant for the usual diner eats or The Franklin Cafe for sandwiches. 

Road riding PSA. The Northern Rail Trail ends 12 miles south of Franklin, after which you’ll be riding on roads for the next 9 miles to Concord and another 18 miles or so to Manchester. I personally haven’t ridden this stretch, so don’t have any pro tips to offer. Stay safe out there! 

Eat in Concord. The Works Cafe should have you covered for most of what you’d want for lunch. Roll down Main Street while you’re in Concord, which has a nice vibe. The New Hampshire State House is nearby. 

Stay in Manchester. Admittedly, my only real recommendation in Manchester is one of my all around favorite guitar stores: Manchester Music Mill. If you’re a rocker too, you’re welcome. If not, I’m sorry, I don’t have much more for you. Ash Street Inn is probably your best bet for non-corporate hotels. For something more upscale than New Hampshire country stores, try Fratello's Italian Grille or Firefly American Bistro & Bar for dinner.

Day 3: Manchester >> Concord

Get breakfast in Manchester. Try the Red Arrow Diner, a local favorite that’s been serving all-day breakfasts for 100 years. There’s a newer branch in Londonderry just off the trail if you want to get in a few miles before eats. For coffeeshop fare, try The Bridge Cafe. Waterworks Cafe looks good too.

Coast from Manchester to Lawrence. There are a nice series of connected and, for the most part, paved trails between the two cities. Specifically, you’ll go Londonderry Rail Trail >> Windham Rail Trail >> Salem Bike-Ped Corridor >> Methuen Rail Trail. Don’t miss the bright blue Boston & Maine caboose at the Windham Depot, good for bike selfies (see the lead photo for this trip above)

Eat in Lawrence. There’s a wealth of Latin American restaurants downtown. I vote Terra Luna Cafe.

Check out the Lowell National Historic Park. For some more Industrial Revolution education, don’t miss the National Streetcar Museum too! 

Visit North Bridge. Concord’s North Bridge is where the American Revolution began, the site of the “shots heard round the world” where the colonial militiamen first exchanged gunfire with British soldiers. Part of Minute Man National Historical Park, the area surrounding the bridge is beautiful and full of history. 

Stay in Concord. Concord’s Colonial Inn is a fitting retreat for the night. Treat yourself to dinner at the Inn’s own Merchant’s Row restaurant.

Day 4: Concord >> Boston

Get breakfast in Concord. No shortage of places on Main Street. Try Main Street Market & Cafe, Sally Anns Bakery & Food Shop, Haute Coffee, or Helene’s Restaurant.  

Explore Minute Man National Historic Park. After North Bridge, the rest of the park follows the old road between Lexington and Concord, now called Battle Road Trail. It’s a real experience that genuinely feels like riding back in time. Stop to read the informative signs and take some bike selfies along the way. The ride back to Boston from here is an easy one, so take your time and enjoy. 

Don’t miss Lexington. Battle Road Trail spits you out a short mile and a half from the Lexington Common National Historic Site. Take some time to explore here as well. 

Maybe a stop in Bedford too? The Minuteman Commuter Bikeway lives up to its name and is a straight shot that gets you into Boston in no time. Consider a 7.5 mile round-trip detour up to the start of the trail in Bedford. The Bedford Depot and Depot Park, with their cool old Boston & Maine rail cars and other fodder for bike selfies, are a good excuse to make the short trek back north.

Bike the Charles. Granted this is not the most direct route, watching the skyline slowly rise along the Charles River Bike Path makes for a nice approach into the city and adds a few scenic miles to an otherwise easy day of riding.

Enjoy Boston. You’ll practically ride right past Harvard Square. Take a quick trip to Harvard Yard and take a bike selfie in front of the John Harvard Statue while you’re there. Hit up Raven Used Books if you’ve finished your reading list about libertarians, bears, and Richard Potter. Roll through Public Garden and Boston Common. Cap it off with a pie at Regina Pizzeria. And if you’ve still got time to kill head over to Charlestown, which is the oldest neighborhood in Boston. Take a few to visit Paul Revere’s Ride, Boston National Historic Park (home to the USS Constitution), and Bunker Hill before making your way back to North Station and NYC.

Alternate Route: Manchester >> Portsmouth >> Portland

Add a little Vacationland. If you’re keen to swap Massachusetts for Maine (and who could blame you?), connect this trip to the latter half of the Boston & Maine: Eastern Line trip! 

• Alt Day 3: Instead of heading south to Concord, ride the Rockingham Recreational Rail Trail from Manchester to Portsmouth. Enjoy Portsmouth and spend the night there. 
• Alt Day 4: Continue up the coast from Portsmouth to Portland, or split it into a more leisurely two-day ride. Follow the recommendations of the Boston & Maine: Eastern Line trip for Portsmouth onward for tips on where to go and what to eat along the way. Take the Amtrak Downeaster back to Boston and Amtrak Northeast Regional from there to get home.

Trails

• Northern Rail Trail
• Winnipesaukee River Trail
• Londonderry Rail Trail
• Windham Rail Trail
• Salem Bike-Ped Corridor
• Methuen Rail Trail
• Bruce Freeman Rail Trail
• Minuteman Commuter Bikeway
• Charles River Bike Path