Philly or Bust
Some bike trips are about getting lost. Others like this one are about the mission of making it to your destination, especially when the route is less than direct. Follow the waterways of Pennsylvania up the Delaware, across the Lehigh, and down the Perkiomen and Schuylkill into the heart of Philly.
Ride Details
160 miles
3 day ride
Depart: NJ Transit Northeast Corridor
Penn Station >> Trenton
Return: Amtrak Northeast Regional
Philadelphia >> Penn Station
Mix of asphalt, crushed stone, and packed dirt
Night 1: Camp at Dogwood Haven Family Campground
Night 2: Camp at Deep Creek Campground
This trip is a bike camping hall of famer for me. It has that goldilocks mix of feeling off the beaten path, yet never being far from anything you need, which I always find reassuring when largely trying to roll self-supported.
Day 1: Trenton >> Upper Black Eddy
Ride the PA side. There are two premier trails that flank the Delaware: the Delaware & Raritan Canal State Park Trail on the Jersey side, and the Delaware & Lehigh National Heritage Corridor (aka D&L Trail) on the Pennsylvania side. Each has its own vibe, and they’re both great. Given the number of bridges that cross the river, you can also easily jump from one side to the other throughout your ride. For this trip though, I recommend sticking mostly to the PA side and saving the NJ side for a future trip riding Delaware River Run. Google Maps will show a trail gap on the PA side opposite Frenchtown, but it’s a lie. You can cruise the whole way on the PA side.
Visit Washington Crossing. Both of them. Start with Washington Crossing State Park Visitors Center on the NJ side, which is mostly just a park, then hop over to Washington Crossing Historic Park on the PA side and visit the museum. Lots of cool history here and plenty of fodder for bike selfies.
Explore New Hope and Lambertville. I first learned about these sister towns and the verb “antiquing” when my father brought me here as a teenager. Yes, they’re full of antique shops, but also so much more. Both are very quaint and great places to stop and explore for a few. Read at Farley’s Bookshop, take a bike selfie at the New Hope Railroad, and check out Buck’s County Playhouse. Roll up and down the Main streets for more window shopping and river views.
Take a break at Bull’s Island Recreation Area. Pretty place for a breather. Lumberville General Store on the PA side is good for snacks.
Eat in Frenchtown. Can’t go wrong with Bridge Cafe, Frenchtown Cafe, or Lovin’ Oven. Over several trips I tried to eat at Frenchtown Inn, but somehow always missed the food service times. Maybe you’ll have better luck than me.
Dinner at Canal House Station. Do. Not. Miss. Book in advance. This place is a real highlight and oh so, so good.
Camp at Dogwood Haven Family Campground. It’s right on the trail. That’s about the best thing going for it. Take a bike selfie in front of the cool old jeep if the owner still parks it there. Make sure to call and reserve in advance.
Day 2: Upper Black Eddy >> Perkiomenville
Get breakfast at Homestead Coffee Roasters. Good place to start your day. Mueller's General Store and Kitchen is a little ways up the road too in Riegelsville. This is a big day of riding down, so eat up.
Snap a shot in Easton. Specifically, where the Delaware and Lehigh rivers meet. Can’t miss it, you bike right by it.
Don’t miss Hugh Moore Park Canal Museum! The National Canal Museum is good fun. There’s also a working canal boat and some old canal houses in the park.
Pay attention on the road to Bethlehem. For several reasons… 1) Much of the trail is more single track than rail trail here—beware the stray root, rock, or ditch. 2) You’ll pass the Steel Stacks, and they are truly a sight to behold! If you’re riding in a leafy season, it may be hard to spot them through the forest canopy. 3) It’s exceptionally easy to overshoot Bethlehem. You’d think a big industrial city would make itself known, but from the vantage point of the trail you’re mostly just in the woods. Turn your directions on and aim for the Historical Bethlehem Station.
Eat and explore in Bethlehem. Be sure to head downtown for a quick glance. Fegley's Bethlehem Brew Works is a decent spot for a burger and a beer in that area. I would be remiss, however, if I didn’t plug my wife’s all time favorite college sandwich joint for your lunch: The Gooseman. Consider a stop at the National Museum of Industrial History on your way out if time permits.
Pay attention on the roads out of Bethlehem. Leaving the D&L Trail requires a little more wayfinding for the remaining third of the ride. Rest assured that you won’t need to climb those mountains directly in front of you heading south from Bethlehem. You have the Saucon Rail Trail to thank for that, as it weaves its way through the hills on a manageable railroad grade. The end of that trail puts you on roads for the remaining 16 miles, about half of which is along the very leisurely and scenic Swamp Creek Road. The rest is on a not particularly pleasant county road with no shoulder. Ride safe!
Dinner at Francis Kaufman House Restaurant. The proprietor fed me a phenomenally good breakfast here. I would eat anything she cooked again.
Camp at Deep Creek Campground. Don’t forget to call and reserve in advance.
Day 3: Perkiomenville >> Philly
Go back to Francis Kaufman House Restaurant for breakfast. Call in advance to confirm they are in fact serving breakfast, because they don’t always. If they are, enjoy! If not, God help you… The only other relatively nearby place is Country Chef’s Kitchen. Maybe pack snacks?
Enjoy the Perkiomen Trail. True story, that trail was the initial inspiration for this website. It just has everything that makes for a good bike trail: smooth surface, water views, bridges, winding route, leafy canopy, other people, well marked, and all gently sloping downhill. While riding it all I could think was “Other people need to know about these great bike trip trails!”
Visit Valley Forge National Historical Park. The park has its own dedicated bike loop that is a nice way to see the sights. Plenty of good bike selfie material here.
Eat in Manayunk. I can vouch for Winnie's Manayunk and Manayunk Brewing Company. Lots of other options in town.
Explore Philly. If the Schuylkill River Trail has felt a little underwhelming so far, fear not it all gets much more interesting after Manayunk as the city approaches. Hop off the trail to hit the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art and take your requisite Rocky bike selfie. Follow the Benjamin Franklin Parkway down to City Hall, then ride through the center to Independence Hall for the grand finale. Loads of sights in that area, including tourist traps like the Liberty Bell. Perhaps more importantly, the Independence Visitor Center is nearby with clean public bathrooms. Make your way to 30th Street Station via John F. Kennedy Boulevard for a final Kodak moment.
